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I was trying to cross the border from Croatia to Bosnia. It was 1998, just after the war had ended. We were three Americans in an eggplant purple Daewoo Tico with Macedonian plates. With a good breakfast in me, I could have lifted the car myself if need be.

We got lost just after crossing the border into Bosnia, after one of the guys I was with had just been shaken down by bored border guards (in a cement room with a Pamela Anderson bikini poster as the only decoration).

And I have never, ever felt so much like I'd just entered the twilight zone. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely fell in love with Bosnia and, of course, Croatia is one of the most beautiful countries on the Mediterranean, but, man, this place was seriously freaky.

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